My Hawaii Hostel guest @irishbutnotanirish at the Waipi’o Valley Lookout, courtesy photo.
Grab your cowboy boots and get ready for an adventure deep into Paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country! This road trip takes you from Kona north to Waimea, a little mountain town at just under 3,000 ft. elevation and along the Hamakua Coast to the breathtaking Waipi’o Valley Lookout and historic Honokaa town. This is a beautiful ride through raw, open country with gorgeous views, and plenty of spots to stop for good eats along the way. There is an optional hike down into Waipi’o Valley, and a tour of a local chocolate farm. Did someone say chocolate samples? The best days for this road trip are Saturdays or Wednesdays when you can catch a farmers market in Waimea.
Kona to Waimea
Leave My Hawaii Hostel in Kona early in the morning to get to Waimea in time for the farmers markets mid-morning on Saturday. They generally run from 8-12 noon. The drive takes about 45 minutes to an hour, and doesn’t have much traffic. You can take the coastal route, but we prefer the upper mountain road which gives you stunning views of Mauna Kea, the Kohala Mountain Range, and the coastline below. Drive carefully on this narrow winding road and watch out for goats.
About Waimea
Waimea is known for its long standing ranching and farming culture. The town is home to Parker Ranch, one of the largest privately owned cattle ranches in the United States and the largest in the Hawaiian Islands, established in 1847. Waimea hosts two annual rodeos on July 4th and over Labor Day weekend. The Hawaiian rodeo is a unique cultural experience - check it out if you happen to be on island over these holidays.
Waimea town in the shadow of Mauna Kea Volcano.
Fourth of July Rodeo in Waimea.
Stop 1: Waimea Farmers market & Paniolo Heritage Museum
Stop off at one of Waimea’s eclectic farmer’s markets to support island farmers, food trucks, and craft vendors. Mix with locals and soak in Waimea’s cooler weather, beautiful views, and green rolling hills. Here’s our two favorite markets.
Kamuela Farmers Market, Saturdays & Wednesdays
Located Pukalani Stables, you can access this market by turning right onto Ala Ohia Road, by the soccer field and rodeo fair grounds, right before you enter Waimea. This market has several food trucks, including Top of Mauna Kea, for delicious Hawaiian style BBQ, a Thai Food truck, and fresh baked bread. There are a few craft and produce vendors. This is the smaller of the two markets. Pukalani Stables is home to the Paniolo Heritage Center - a free museum dedicated to Waimea’s ranching tradition. Hours are Monday - Saturday 9am - 2pm.
Waimea Town Farmers Market, Saturdays
Located at Parker School, this market has tons of options for prepared hot food, fresh produce, and many craft vendors, including jewelry, clothing, arts, and more. This is the larger of the two markets.
On Top of Mauna Kea Hawaiian BBQ food truck at the Kamuela Farmer’s Market
Waimea Town Market on a busy Saturday.
Waimea to Waipi’o Valley Lookout
The scenic drive from Waimea to the Waipi’o Valley Lookout via Honokaa takes about 40 minutes. Along the way you’ll pass through rolling green pastures and plenty of cows who enjoy million dollar views. What a life!
We recommend heading to the lookout first, especially if you plan to hike down into the valley, and then visiting Honokaa on the way back. Waipio Valley Lookout is one of the Big Island’s most popular destinations. Parking can be limited. If parking at the lookout is full, you can park along the road with care. Be sure to lock your vehicle and keep any valuables out of sight.
Stop 2: Waipi’o Valley Lookout
Stop and take in the stunning view of Waipi’o Valley from above. Three thousand foot cliffs drop away to the lush valley floor with taro patches, wild horses, and a long stretch of black sand beach. In the back of the valley, towering waterfalls, some as high as 1,500 feet plunge from the ancient Kohala Mountains. Waipi’o valley was once home to Ali’i Royalty and is known as the “Valley of the Kings”. In the Hawaiian language, Waipi’o means “curved water”. Until the tsunami of 1946, the valley was heavily populated. Today, only a small community of people live here off-grid.
Waipio Valley with view of the steep 4X4 entrance road from the Muliwai Trail.
Stop 3: Optional Hike Into The Valley
The road into Waipi’o Valley is one of the steepest on the island, descending some 900 feet in less than a mile. Only extremely experienced drivers with a 4X4 vehicle can drive this road. For this reason, we recommend parking up top at the lookout and hiking down into Waipi’o Valley. While the hike is only 3 miles round trip, it is intense due to the elevation! Wear running shoes with good tread or hiking boots and bring plenty of water, snacks, and reef-safe sunscreen. For more details on the hike, see Big Island Hikes.
Note on Waipi’o: Be respectful of private property and the privacy of Waipi’o Valley residents. Aside from the main road down and the road to the beach, all other roads leading to the back of the valley, including to Hiilawe Falls are private and not open to the public.
Down in the valley, you can visit the beautiful black sand beach, and maybe even spot some wild horses. The beach is split in two by the Waipi’o River which meets the sea here. When the waves are up, the surf can be quite powerful. Use caution swimming and do not cross the river if the current is strong or the tide is high. On the far west side of the beach you will see a “Z trail” zigzagging up the side of the cliff. This is Muliwai Trail and the beginning of the hike to Waimanu Valley, the remote Valley next to Waipi’o that is an extreme backpacking destination. The Big Island Hikes website covers these hikes in detail as well.
Waipi’o’s black sand beach.
Stop 4: Historic Honokaa Town
Backtrack the way you came on Waipi’o Road until it T’s into Honokaa’s quaint downtown. The drive is about 8 miles from the Waipi’o Valley Lookout. Honokaa was a bustling town during the sugarcane plantation era. Many of its western style buildings date to the early 1900s, like the Honokaa People’s Theatre, built in 1930 and still open today. The theatre show films nightly for just $6.
Like Waimea, Honokaa has a strong ranching and farming culture. Every spring, Honokaa Western Week attracts hundreds of people from around the island to celebrate tradition with rodeo, food, entertainment, a “saloon girl” contest, line dancing, and more.
Honokaa Eats
Honokaa has several awesome spots to eat. Here are three of our favorites spots to stop in and stuff our face when in town. Warning: if you have a sweet tooth, you’re in the right place!
Fujino Shave Ice
Yum, shave ice! This place has a friendly community vibe and tons of shave ice flavors and fresh toppings to choose from. Perfect after a long hot hike down into Waipi’o or after strolling around Honokaa’s main street. $
Cafe Il Mondo
We love Cafe Il Mondo for satisfying homemade Italian food. Delicious brick oven pizzas, pastas, and a carefully selected wine list plus a cozy atmosphere make this place popular. Note that they close at 2 pm and reopen for dinner 5pm - 8pm. They are not open Sundays. $$
Tex Drive Inn
Established in 1969, Tex Drive Inn is an institution. This spot is known around the island for their delicious fresh baked malasadas. Malasadas are Portuguese style donuts that are beloved in Hawaii. Light, fluffy, and coated with sugar on the outside, they are made with a variety of tropical fruit fillings or plain. Tex also has a full menu of greasy favorites like cheese burgers, chili dogs, tater tots, and local staples like loco moco and mix plates. Its a perfect place to grab a quick bite with no-frills indoor and outdoor seating. $
Stop 5: Honokaa Chocolate Company
Located just outside of Honokaa town on the way back to Waimea, Kahi Ola Mau Farm is a chocolate lovers paradise. They grow cacao on site and make their own chocolate. Tours are a little on the pricey side at $40 per person, but include plenty of chocolate samples, raw cacao fruit tasting, and a full farm tour. The 1-hour tours are generally available between 2-4pm Monday through Saturday and have a 2 person minimum. Reserve ahead of time on their website.
Raw cacao pods harvested from the farm.
Farm-made chocolate - yum!
Stop 6: Waimea Brewhaus
Head back the way you came on Hwy 19 and stop in Waimea for a cold one at the Waimea Brewhaus. Mentioned in our previous blog, What’s Brewing On The Big Island?, the Brewhaus serves up a unique selection of craft beers brewed onsite. They have a Tex-Mex themed menu with appetizers and smaller plates for a quick bar snack.
Waimea’s Parker Ranch Center has a food court with bathrooms and a Starbucks if you need a pick me up or a pit stop before the drive back to Kona.
Head Home to My Hawaii Hostel
Take care driving back to Kona after dark. The roads, especially the upper Hwy 190 has no lighting. You can take the coastal road home instead of the upper Hwy. This route is slightly longer, but a little easier to drive at night. If you head back before sundown, the coastal route along Hwy 19 is excellent for catching the sunset.
We hope this road trip itinerary was helpful! Don’t forget to tag us in your adventures @myhawaiihostel.